Navigating the World of Suits: Key Rules for Selecting the Perfect Fit
Gentleman's Journal

Navigating the World of Suits: Key Rules for Selecting the Perfect Fit

Jul 25, 2023

Choosing the right suit is key to looking and feeling your best. As experts in bespoke tailoring, Herringbone & Sui is here to simplify the process. In this guide, we'll provide you with essential guidelines to help you select a suit that suits your style and fits perfectly.

  1. Suit Styles: Double-Breasted, Single-Breasted, or Three-Piece?

Consider different suit styles and their characteristics. The double-breasted suit offers a structured and elegant look, while the single-breasted suit is versatile and elongates the silhouette. The three-piece suit, with a waistcoat, adds sophistication to any outfit.

  1. Double-Breasted Suit: The double-breasted suit features six buttons and peak lapels. It exudes a powerful and refined aesthetic. It's best suited for taller and slimmer individuals, as it emphasises the horizontal plane and broadens the shoulders.

  2. Single-Breasted Suit: The single-breasted suit is a timeless classic. It can have peak lapels and is now often worn with waistcoats. Well-tailored single-breasted suits elongate the silhouette and have a comfortable fit.

  1. Three-Piece Suit: The three-piece suit adds a waistcoat to the ensemble. It offers an extra touch of elegance and should be worn buttoned. The waistcoat can be single or double-breasted and complements the suit design.

  1. Fabric Selection:

Consider different suit fabrics based on the season and your personal preferences. Merino wool is luxurious and versatile. Mohair wool is breathable and thermally insulating. Cashmere offers comfort in cold weather, while linen is lightweight and resilient for summer.

  1. Canvassing:

Quality suits feature a canvassed construction, where a layer of canvas cloth is inserted between the fabric layers. This allows the suit to breathe and conform to your body shape. Check for this feature by feeling for a third layer of fabric near the first button.

  1. The Drop:

The drop refers to the ratio between chest and waist size in a suit. Choose a ready-to-wear suit with a drop that suits your body type. Higher drops provide a snugger fit for slim individuals, while lower drops work well for those with a stouter build.

  1. Fitting Tips:

When trying on a suit, fill your pockets and wear a shirt and shoes similar to your usual attire. Check for collar gaps, proper shoulder drape, waist tension, and sleeve length that stops at the wrist bone. Aim for a neat and natural line from shoulders to sleeves.

  1. Patterns and Motifs:

Choose patterns that flatter your body type. Stripes elongate the silhouette, while checks add bulk. Use patterns strategically to enhance your appearance.

  1. Colour Choices:

For formal events, opt for dark-coloured suits like navy blue or black. Blue suits are suitable for work, while grey suits are versatile for less formal occasions. Experiment with colours that suit your taste and refine your choices over time.

By following these essential guidelines, you can confidently choose the perfect suit. Consider different styles, select appropriate fabrics, and prioritise the fit. Dressing in a suit that suits your style and body type will boost your confidence and make a lasting impression.

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